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May 31, 2017 4:09 pm
May 31, 2017 4:09 pm
Subject: Re: LG6 Steering Box refurbishment
Hi Mike,
Welcome to the forum.
I can recommend Steering Services, located in Dorking (UK). See: http://www.steeringservices.co.uk/ . They rebuilt my LG6's steering box in 2000. Actually I went to him to buy the parts required...but his quote to do the job was so little more than the cost of the parts that I had him rebuild it. Postage obviously an issue, so if you feel competent, ordering the parts might well be your best option.
The box dismantles fairly easily; if you like send me an email and I will send you scans of photos of the parts arrayed in order. By far the worst job is removing the drop arm. Once you've removed the humungous nut (split pin first), you will need a substantial puller to separate this. I used a hydraulic puller, even that had to be wound up pretty tight. Clean and check the drop arm and splined spindle ends for alignment marks, or make marks, to aid reassembly.
As initially rebuilt, I could not turn the inner column by hand, so I took the box back. The rebuilder stated that that was correct (obviously far more leverage using the steering wheel), but accepted there could be more friction as a needle roller bearing was unobtainable, and he had replaced it with a plain bush. On his recommendation, I had the shaft ground to accept available bearings.
I still think it's too tight! Oil leaking from the front plate indicated that there were insufficient spacing shims. Also, now the steering centres with the steering wheel clamp uppermost, whereas I'm sure it should be facing the floor. This may though be because, being a special, the column is at a lower angle than original.
So DIY might be your best option anyway. I think those brass shims either side of the main housing set not only the bearing free play, but also, by trial and error, the centralisation of the steering wheel position.
I suspect my heavy steering could result from insufficient adjustment shims and that the needle roller change for plain bearing was a red herring. Hopefully your bearing will be in re-useable condition.
Take care with the aluminium housing on the end of the box through which the stator tubes emerge. There is a tiny clamp with small nut and bolt to loosen first, then two nuts bolted onto studs on the front plate. Mine is cracked where it bolts to the lower stud...very fragile. Take photos of lever positions before you dismantle!
Laurence
Hi Mike,
Welcome to the forum.
I can recommend Steering Services, located in Dorking (UK). See: http://www.steeringservices.co.uk/ . They rebuilt my LG6's steering box in 2000. Actually I went to him to buy the parts required...but his quote to do the job was so little more than the cost of the parts that I had him rebuild it. Postage obviously an issue, so if you feel competent, ordering the parts might well be your best option.
The box dismantles fairly easily; if you like send me an email and I will send you scans of photos of the parts arrayed in order. By far the worst job is removing the drop arm. Once you've removed the humungous nut (split pin first), you will need a substantial puller to separate this. I used a hydraulic puller, even that had to be wound up pretty tight. Clean and check the drop arm and splined spindle ends for alignment marks, or make marks, to aid reassembly.
As initially rebuilt, I could not turn the inner column by hand, so I took the box back. The rebuilder stated that that was correct (obviously far more leverage using the steering wheel), but accepted there could be more friction as a needle roller bearing was unobtainable, and he had replaced it with a plain bush. On his recommendation, I had the shaft ground to accept available bearings.
I still think it's too tight! Oil leaking from the front plate indicated that there were insufficient spacing shims. Also, now the steering centres with the steering wheel clamp uppermost, whereas I'm sure it should be facing the floor. This may though be because, being a special, the column is at a lower angle than original.
So DIY might be your best option anyway. I think those brass shims either side of the main housing set not only the bearing free play, but also, by trial and error, the centralisation of the steering wheel position.
I suspect my heavy steering could result from insufficient adjustment shims and that the needle roller change for plain bearing was a red herring. Hopefully your bearing will be in re-useable condition.
Take care with the aluminium housing on the end of the box through which the stator tubes emerge. There is a tiny clamp with small nut and bolt to loosen first, then two nuts bolted onto studs on the front plate. Mine is cracked where it bolts to the lower stud...very fragile. Take photos of lever positions before you dismantle!
Laurence